Hand-sew a loose hem with small, relaxed stitches

Pin the hem back on its original fold, use a single strand of matching thread, and catch only a tiny amount of the outer fabric with each stitch. Space stitches about 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) apart and keep them relaxed enough that the garment does not pucker.

Confirm that the fold still works

This repair suits a hem that has come unstitched while the fabric and folded allowance remain sound. If the edge is badly frayed, the garment has torn above the fold, or changing the length would affect how it hangs, the job needs more than simply replacing the old stitches.

Turn the garment inside out and smooth the hem into its former crease. Compare it with an intact section. Pin perpendicular to the fold every few inches, keeping the outside layer flat. If the fabric tolerates pressing according to its care label, a light press can restore the fold before sewing.

Choose a fine, sharp hand-sewing needle that passes through the fabric without forcing a large hole. Utah State University Extension's blind-hem standard calls for a single strand of matching thread. Match the garment color at the outside surface; a slightly darker thread is often less conspicuous than a lighter one, but test it under ordinary light.

Cut 18 to 24 inches (46 to 61 centimeters) of thread. Yarnspirations' hand-sewing guidance recommends that range to reduce tangling and knotting. Thread one end through the needle and knot the other, leaving a single strand between needle and knot.

Hide the starting knot inside the folded hem allowance. Bring the needle out through the folded edge where the original stitching stopped. This keeps both the knot and the loose tail away from the garment's visible side.

Take small bites and leave the thread relaxed

Work from right to left if that is comfortable; reverse the direction if you are left-handed. At each stitch:

1. Pick up one or two threads from the outer garment layer without pushing the needle through to the visible face.
2. Move the needle into the folded hem edge beside that point.
3. Travel a short distance inside the fold and bring the needle out for the next stitch.
4. Draw the thread through until it lies flat, without tightening the fabric.

USU's blind-hem guide specifies stitches about 1/4 inch apart, alternating from hem to garment. It also says the stitches should be secure, evenly spaced, free from drawing, and inconspicuous on the outside.

After every four or five stitches, turn the garment to the right side. If you see a dimple or diagonal pull, loosen the most recent stitches. Yarnspirations gives the same practical test: visible pulling means remove the tight stitches and try again more loosely.

Secure the end and inspect the repair

Overlap the intact old stitching by two or three stitches instead of stopping at the first secure point. On the inside, take one small stitch through the hem allowance, pass the needle through the resulting loop, and repeat with a short backstitch. Clip the tail close without cutting the garment.

Remove the pins and let the garment hang. The hem should remain level, the outside should show no puckered line, and the repaired section should flex like the rest. A few tiny thread specks are less noticeable than a tight, perfectly straight row that pulls the fabric.

For the next loose section, reuse the same spacing and tension rather than making the stitches smaller and tighter. The repair holds because the load is shared across many relaxed stitches, not because one strand has been pulled hard.